Dutch Class

I like to stop off at the embedded Starbucks franchise in Borders bookshop on Magdalen street to have coffee and a muffin and to browse a few magazines. It is often a nice little break from whatever else is going on in the day.

Some things I see there have always caused me to waggle my eyebrows. For instance a significant fraction of the people who borrow books or magazines from the bookstore to read in Starbucks seem to treat these with no respect whatsoever. Cracking spines on paperback books and peppering books and magazines with food remains will in most cases render these unsaleable. I am not sure what the direct equivalent in Holland would be but having seen a few embedded cafes in Borders and Barnes & Noble stores in New York I am pretty confident that similar behaviour over there would net a conversation with the store manager if the perpetrator didn’t get pulled up short by fellow visitors first. In Oxford this doesn’t seem to happen. One just looks.

A more recent observation is that some people seem to use Starbucks in Borders as an office or in fact a place of business and hogging an inordinate amount of space for a long time. Now I have to admit that I am not entirely innocent myself here as I do occasionally do some work with laptop or exercise book myself there but it never takes longer than an hour and thirty to forty minutes would be more typical. Given the cost of £5 for coffee and a cake I don’t feel too guilty about it.

Some people take it a little further and they set up with a laptop, lever arch files, piles of books and general amounts of contents appropriate for a small office. I have never actually timed any one’s stay but some of these ‘professionals’ do seem to sit there for large fractions of the day as I sometimes see them in the same spot as I pass at various times during the day. Sometimes they spread out over more than one table and as their ‘offices’ grow bigger they seem to take up more space in general perhaps adding an additional chair to rest their feet on or in fact an extra table to make a larger workstation.

Even this breed is now being superseded by a new generation of super-pros. A good example being people that provide remedial education for various levels of school children and students. They set up school and their students take up several adjacent tables. When one set of students is done, the next set moves in. In this way they will use a significant fraction of the cafe for up to half a day, often for the price of a single bottle of water.

Unlike the book and magazine destruction I am not sure whether this use of the cafe is explicitly in violation of any rules. What I am sure of is that it causes many other customers inconvenience as these little schools tend to take up the nicest places to sit for a long time, thus making them unavailable to others.

In conversation with friends I sometimes reflect that I will write to the UK Manager of Borders bookstores suggesting that they allocate some kind of hybrid open office space in their stores and make it available for limited periods of time for a small fee.  Personally I would happily pay it a handful of times during the month and I think it would be fair if the educational entrepreneurs did the same. They will be making hundreds of pounds per session. It would seem reasonable for them to pay for the resources they are using.

I will write that letter.

Jamie’s Italian restaurant on George street is a relative newcomer on the Oxford scene having opened only a few weeks ago in the location where the Cock & Camel pub used to be. We’ve been keen to have a look for a while but today was the first time that there wasn’t actually a discouragingly long queue outside when we walked by. Clearly there are more people who would like to try it.

We are quite partial to Italian restaurants and Italian food in general and I in particular am a fan of Jamie Oliver’s because in some ways he always seems to capture the spirit of Italian cuisine even better than some Italian practitioners themselves. Fresh food, simple tastes, etc. You’ve seen it all on TV and it works. So we were quite excited at finally getting to try Jamie’s Italian on George street.

Despite the fact there wasn’t a queue we still had to wait for 20 minutes at a very crowded bar and when we eventually got a table we also found ourselves at rather intimate range from the people at the tables beside us. They have crammed too many tables into too little space. The waiting staff would probably agree because it those who served us had to perform acts of medium to advanced contortionism to do it. As a consequence of the high density of customers and staff per square foot the restaurant is also very loud to the point where it starts to intrude on conversation. 

The menu looks very ‘Jamie’ like. It contains many Oliverisms, usually delivered in the first person. Most of the dishes are Italianate. Where he has stuck to traditional Italian dishes the name has  been jazzed up here and there, e.g. The Penne al Arrabiata are called ‘Turbo Penne’. Many other dishes are not strictly traditional Italian restaurant fare but on paper they look true to the Jamie ethos as covered in his books and TV programmes.

In actual fact the food was vaguely disappointing. We I started with a Genovese pesto dish that looked very promising on paper and that looked just as promising when delivered to the table, containing some extra vegetables and potatoes to make it more interesting than the usual plate of tagliatelle covered with pesto and some parmesan. Shame then that the pesto itself was not very convincing. With the best will in the world I could hardly taste the basil in it and finding any trace of pecorino cheese was just as difficult. Ultimately this pesto has little or no energy. Somehow not what I would have expected as a Jamie Oliver fan or of a restaurant that advertises ‘lush’ pesto.

Similarly the main course of Salmon on a bed of roasted vegetables couldn’t quite impress. The Salmon was nicely cooked but the roast vegetables were just nowhere near as good as roast vegetables can be. Desert of a banana chocolate brownie again nice enough but not very memorable and not a match for similar deserts at Chez Gerard’s or Carluccio’s.

Just below the deserts the menu also lists Jamie Oliver T-shirts and signed books.

The bill (including a 10% tip but not counting money spent at the bar while waiting for a table) came to about £35 a head which is a bit high for Oxford casual dining standards and a better dinner and general experience can certainly be had elsewhere and not infinitely far away in Oxford. There is something of the emperor’s new Parka about Jamie’s.

I looked up the Independent’s Restaurant review of Jamies Italian in Oxford and it appears somewhat more positive than mine. Have a look. The Independent’s reviewer took along Oxford locals who apparently ‘were down on their knees in gratitude’ for Jamie bringing this miracle of good food to Oxford. Given the quality of the food traditionally served on George Street I can kind of see the point however I really must suggest that they give Chez Gerard’s on the opposite side of the street a go. It is a more pleasant and comfortable place to sit and they serve better food for less money. Or take a short walk down to the Castle complex and try Carluccio’s. Both of those are Pukkah.

As noted in the previous post Oxford’s twin town in the Netherlands is Leiden and it is similar to Oxford in the sense that it is an old town with a prominent University distributed all over the town.

There are however also differences between Oxford and Leiden. One obvious one is that Leiden is one of the Dutch towns that has many canals running through it so that going from one place to another usually entails crossing at least one bridge. The picture below shows a canal view shot from a bridge on a somewhat sunnier day.



Leiden really does have this “picture book” Dutch look about it. There is even a windmill in the centre opposite which you can buy Dutch pancakes. All that is missing to complete the picture is a herring selling cart and some seagulls although, some to think of it, you could find those too…